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桃源的街

来源:湖南日报 宋建民   时间 : 2020-05-15

 

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  在我少年的记忆中,桃源县城的街永远是那么古朴和自然,她记录了桃源县城历史嬗变的轨迹,也是我心中永远无法抹去的乡愁。

  桃源县城的街是按东南西北的方位取名的。东街是一条县城区域内临沅水下游的街。记忆中,从上至下,依次有县人民银行、玉器雕刻社和县人民医院等坐落在这条街上,还有一家规模较大的粮店和轮渡码头。南街是县城里最繁华的一条街,那里有众多的商贾铺面,熙熙攘攘的人群使这条街十分热闹。尤其是这条街上有桃源汉剧院,她以唱荆河剧而著名。每当夜深剧院散场时,这条街常被观剧的人堵得水泄不通。县委、县政府在南街和西街的交汇处。那里是桃源县的政治中心,也是人们谈论最多的地方。还有一处景观记忆深刻,那就是由边街通往南街的城南“上桥”,单拱形的桥面铺满青石板,桥头立着一块篆刻着“上桥”的石碑,是桃源县城历史久远的标志。西街不太热闹,但过了土桥便是闻名遐迩的桃源纺织印染厂。这座上世纪60年代中期建成的棉纺织印染厂,当时号称是全省大型纺织印染厂之一。这是桃源的骄傲,也是当时常德地区最重要的工业企业之一。由于她的建立,地处城区西郊偌大的二里岗变成了一座纺织印染工业新城。北街比较冷清,但有县人武部、县长途汽车站和桃源大饭店,特别是大片的旧式建筑群和用于防洪的古石柜上的亭台楼阁,让人记忆深刻。

  少年的我一直在外祖母家生活。外祖母家既不在城里的东街西街,也未能住到南街北街,而是住在被当时人们称之为城里的边街。既然是边街,在当时人们的印象中是比较偏僻的。

  边街位于桃源县城沅水的上游,从上游顺流而下,首先就是桃源师范学校,这所由辛亥革命先驱宋教仁先生在1912年创办的、以培养小学老师为目标的师范学校,饱经历史的沧桑。在新中国成立后被命名为省立二女师,1953年8月正式定名为湖南省桃源师范学校,此后一直沿用这个校名。她是湖南省最早创办的六所师范学校之一,从这里走出了不少的爱国志士和教育界的先驱。接着是桃源师范学校的附属小学,简称“桃师附小”,是知名的小学。再往下就是漳江小学。前身是始建于明代的漳江书院。宋教仁曾在这里求学。这是一所完全高等小学,我曾有幸在这里从小学二年级一直读到五年级。那青砖红瓦构成的古香古色的校舍,那宽阔整洁的操场,特别是教学严谨的老师,给我留下了深刻的印象。我现在都还记得我的语文老师段顺成先生,他深厚的国文功底,经常给我们深入浅出地讲解课文,并延伸出课本外的许多古代故事。段老师有一手漂亮工整的硬笔书法,我常常模仿他的字体学习写字。

  沿着边街往前走,有一条“后港”。这条港不宽,名气却不小,沈从文在《桃源与沅州》多次提到。

  可以说,桃源县城的边街,地理位置虽不在城中,但她久远的历史渊源和厚重的教育底蕴,让城中任何一条街都望尘莫及。那时的边街可以说就是一条名副其实的教育街。那时,住在这条街上的人,大多是普通居民,身居社会的底层,却享受了“教育街”上良好的教育资源。我还记得,那时边街上居民住的是拥挤的木屋瓦房,高高低低的木屋沿街两边一字排开。每间木屋临街面不宽,进深却很长,一般有十多米。木屋的后面都有一块一分左右的菜地,供自己家种菜享用。别看一分左右的菜地,却能帮助一家人解决蔬菜之需。木屋虽然比较低矮破旧,但居民间往来频繁,生活成本低,大家相处得很愉快,邻里间很融洽。不像现在人们住着高楼大厦,邻里之间互不认识,互不往来,形同陌路。

  特别值得一提的是,那时这条街上有几十个孩子,年龄大约在7-13岁之间,一般是小学一年级至初中一二年级,且男孩居多。那时放学后作业也不多,做完作业就成群结伙地出去玩了。玩的内容,多是从电影里学来的分成两队“打仗”的游戏,大家非常开心,也增强了彼此的友谊。

  这些记忆,是我对边街抹不去的情愫。

  我自上世纪60年代末离开桃源县城,一晃就是40多年了。虽说也有回桃源探望,但是来去匆匆,今年因陪同客商回访桃源,有了比较充裕的时间参观桃源县城的街道。当我乘着汽车在桃源县城街道上穿行,看到桃源县城已扩大了好几倍,少年时的街道已不见踪影。宽阔的大道代替了过去窄小的街道,高大的楼栋替换了那些砖瓦木屋,感到桃源县城街道翻天覆地的变化,不由得心底里为她这些年的巨大进步感到欣慰。特别是近十年,桃源县城的街道已焕然一新,一个现代化的县城展现在我们的面前。

  在分享桃源县城巨大变化和飞速发展的同时,另一种滋味也在我心中滋长。一些桃源县的古遗址,一些少年记忆中的古街道已无处追寻,城南“上桥”已被拆除,城北建筑群内的古迹在旧城改造中不见影踪,我们经常游玩的“后港”也已填平。见到如此情景,心中不免生出一些遗憾。

  我想,这些承载和见证桃源县城变迁的珍贵遗迹,是城市的记忆,也是桃源人心中抹不去的乡愁。城镇化建设的过程中强调要让人们“望得见山,看得到水,记得住乡愁”,那么在今后推进现代化的城市建设中,是否应对这些遗迹作适当的保留呢?

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