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古楼品茶

来源:湖南日报 张效雄   时间 : 2020-05-15

 

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  春日的雪峰山,翠绿翠绿的。踏着细雨,爬上洞口县一个叫古楼的山寨,环顾四周,山间的茶树,滴着点点细露,淡淡的雾在茶树间飘过,带来一股淡淡的清香。

  古楼没有楼,只有农家的木屋,和新农村建设中崛起的一栋栋砖瓦房。一条清澈的小河从雪峰山里流出,在这里转了一个大弯,把木屋和新楼倒映在清澈的河水里。

  小河绕过的山头,有一排排青翠的茶园。茶园里面以前是否有过楼?是什么年代建设的古楼?如今找不到了。当地人说,好久好久以前,这里确实有过一个古楼,是转运茶叶的一个驿站。古楼的影子虽然无影无踪,但古楼这个名字保存了下来。近些年,人们在过去的古楼附近新建了一座精致的茶亭,在一片绿荫中亭亭玉立,说不上金碧辉煌,倒也精致秀气,颇有玉树临风的架势。遗憾的是,这是亭子不是楼,四周郁郁葱葱,四周清香扑鼻,倒是一个品茶的好去处。

  古楼名字典雅,在雪峰山麓很有点名气,素有茶乡之称,享有“山奇、水碧、林茂、茶韵”的美誉。农家新盖的楼依山而建,山间蜿蜒的路绕溪而行。漫山遍野的茶园,地处北纬29度的黄金产茶带,属亚热带季风性湿润气候,常年云雾缭绕,昼夜温差大,漫射光多,给茶树生长提供了独特的自然环境。这里森林覆盖率达80%,空气负氧离子含量高达每立方厘米3万个,俨然一处世外桃源。

  雪峰山的崇山峻岭岭中,有很古老的茶树。史书记载:明洪武十八年,明太祖朱元璋钦点“古楼雪峰云雾茶”为贡茶,朝廷曾在这里设茶司专管茶叶生产加工和营销贩运。有着贡茶血统的“古楼云雾茶”,通透的茶汤中演绎的,是连绵的茶马古道、绵长的民族智慧、绚烂的历史文明。

  古楼乡是湖南茶文化的重要发源地。1953年,有专家团队对湖南52个产茶县进行调查,认为这里的茶树“古楼种”是一个优秀品种。湖南农业大学朱先明教授多次来到古楼考察,在《湘西茶树群体品种调查》中记载,“古楼种”是湖南优良茶树品种之一,“古楼香”是世界独一无二的茶叶特殊香型。芽叶深绿色,富有光泽,新芽新叶肥嫩多绒毛、持嫩性强,茶多酚、氨基酸及水浸出物含量高。经古楼茶人千年的细心呵护与精心研制,古楼茶“香高味醇,回味甘甜”的贡茶韵味,不仅香满古楼,也早已成为无数爱茶人的最爱之一。古楼云雾绿茶采择之精,制作之工,品第之胜,烹点之妙,莫不盛造其极。绿茶外,还有一款红茶“将军红”,为纪念洞口县生长的蔡锷将军讨袁护国100周年而研制,选用早春野茶芽尖,由顶级制茶师亲手精心制作而成,成品金毫披露,茶芽挺直,如将军在手红缨,泡后悬立杯中,金芽凌波,兰香淡雅,甘醇爽口,品一口即神清气爽,精神焕发。

  漫步茶园,进入茶亭,摆开一张桌子,搬来几张小凳,悠然地铺上一块花布,我们围着小桌坐下。热情的山寨姑娘泡上一壶新茶,一股清香扑鼻而来,浓郁醇厚。就着和暖温润的春风,甜滋滋地品味这甘醇的茶汁,一股清香直入心脾,顿时清爽无比。但看玻璃杯中,白毫披露,茶芽挺直,香高味爽,泡后玉芽凌波悬立,三起三落,如披着绿纱的仙女飘荡在晨雾中。浑然间觉得,于小亭内品茶,品的不是茶味,而是山野的野趣和灵气,是自古传承的文化,回味无穷,美不胜收。

  细雨初歇,清风吹来,抬眼四顾,一抹斜阳从雪峰山深处飞了过来,暖阳之下,山间茶绿,河中水清。农舍的红墙青瓦,在薄雾中漂浮,好一幅春日品茶图。茶园里走来一群采茶的姑娘,穿着印花布的蓝色衣衫,扎着淡红色的花布,歌声从这群采茶姑娘中吹来,带着清甜和甘醇,俨然一幅毫无雕饰的中国山水画,挂在雪峰山的峰岭翠绿之中,漂浮着浓烈的茶味。

  有茶有歌,有风有雾,浓淡相间,色泽分明,山岚环绕,山泉润泽,一呼一吸之间,皆在诉说天地孕育的情怀,尽是浑然天成的美好。山外的嘈杂,世间的纷争,顿时抛到九霄云外去了。此时此刻,此情此景,唯有茶香茶韵余味无穷。

  雪峰山,山泉水,古楼亭,新春茶,让我陶醉在这山野之间。

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